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Favorite Idaho Peaks
Favorite Idaho Peaks
There are so many great peaks to climb in Idaho that it's really hard to create a top ten list. Below are the ones I consider to be the most fun and challenging climbs that I've done. Ask me tomorrow, and I might give these to you in a different order or included different peaks altogether. One thing is for sure, you can't go wrong with any of these mountains if you are looking for a big adventure.
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USGS Peak
Idaho Favorite Rank: #1
Elevation: 11,982'
Range: Lost River
Route: North Face
USGS Peaks is the 10th highest peak in Idaho, but it sees very few ascents. It can be reached via an arduous scree and talus slog from the south, but the north face is a classic climb that should be high on the wish lists of all Idaho mountain climbers. An early season snow climb of the north face is highly recommended. Late June or early July is the optimal time to ensure good snow coverage on the face, but less snow on the lengthy approach hike. A chance to visit the amazingly scenic Long Lost Creek drainage is reason enough to climb this peak. |
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Castle Peak
Idaho Favorite Rank: #2
Elevation: 11,815'
Range: White Clouds
Route: South Face Gully
Castle Peak totally towers over all surrounding terrain. It has been said that Castle is not visible from any paved road, which adds to the mystique of this mega-peak. But any mountain climber will tell you that Castle can be seen from just about any tall peak you climb because it is so much taller than the rest of the White Clouds. The standard route up Castle is the south face gully, which is a fun and popular scramble. What really makes Castle a favorite climb is the great scenery on the approach and jaw dropping summit views. The number of alpine lakes visible from the summit will blow your mind. |
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Mount Regan
Idaho Favorite Rank: #3
Elevation: 10,190'
Range: Sawtooths
Route: Southeast Ridge
Regan provides an amazing backdrop to the highly scenic and popular Sawtooth Lake. As a result, it is one of the most photographed peaks in Idaho. But its summit doesn't see a whole lot of visitors since the easiest route requires some very exposed class IV scrambling to reach the top. The route is sure to keep your blood pumping, and the summit views looking down on Sawtooth Lake are not to be missed. |
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Mount Church
Idaho Favorite Rank: #4
Elevation: 12,200'
Range: Lost River Range
Route: North Face
Church is a rewarding climb by any route. But if you really want to increase the wow factor, try climbing this formidable peak via an early summer snow climb up the ramps on the north face. The approach for the north face route starts at the very remote East Fork Pahsimeroi River, and making basecamp at Lake 9682' is a memorable experience all on its own. But the real test is looking up at the imposing route the night before, and then still having the stomach to roll out bed the next morning to take on the challenge. Good luck sleeping... |
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Big Basin Peak
Idaho Favorite Rank: #5
Elevation: 11,510'
Range: Pioneers
Route: South Ridge
Big Basin Peak is a little known summit located in the heart of the Pioneer Mountains. If you're looking for a challenging scramble involving a good amount of route finding, then the south ridge of Big Basin Peak should be on your to do list. The approach hike starts on the East Fork Big Wood River, then culminates with a great scramble up the south ridge of the peak. Summit views of the rest of the main Pioneer crest are hard to beat. |
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Diamond Peak
Idaho Favorite Rank: #6
Elevation: 12,197'
Range: Lemhis
Route: East Ridge
Diamond Peak is one of the highest mountains in Idaho, and it sees quite a few visitors as a result. The east ridge is the standard route, and it offers up long but straightforward scramble with just enough exposure to keep your blood pumping. Perhaps the best part of this climb is how long the scramble lasts. The east ridge just keeps going and going. It is a favorite peak for both beginners and experienced climbers. |
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Goat Mountain
Idaho Favorite Rank: #7
Elevation: 11,913'
Range: Pioneers
Route: South Face
Goat Mountain in the Pioneer Range provides a formidable challenge because of its long approach hike leading to an exposed class IV scramble to reach the summit. The fact that the crux of the climb is at the very end of the journey means the outcome is in question for much of the day, making it all the more rewarding and satisfying to stand on the lofty summit. The hike back out allows ample time to reflect on the challenge and soak in the considerable scenery that makes this climb an Idaho favorite. |
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Bell Mountain
Idaho Favorite Rank: #8
Elevation: 11,612'
Range: Lemhi
Route: West Face
Few mountains have the allure of Bell. Once you see it from any direction, towering over much of its surroundings, the need to climb it quickly becomes an obsession. Bell's beautiful and distinctive shape beckons climbers to its summit. There are many good route options for Bell, but to maximize the challenge, try an early season snow climb from the west. If you are looking for a great adventure and remote terrain, Bell will not disappoint. |
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Devils Bedstead East
Idaho Favorite Rank: #9
Elevation: 11,865'
Range: Pioneers
Route: Northeast Ridge
If you've ever had a chance to see Devil's Bedstead East, then you know why this peak should be on every climbers to do list. It is a huge hulking peak that almost dares you to climb it. The climb itself is a long sustained scramble up mostly stable boulders and talus. It's a steep route, but probably not as steep as it looks from a distance. Reaching the summit of this amazing peak is a feat to be proud of. |
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White Cloud Peak #10
Idaho Favorite Rank: #10
Elevation: 11,102'
Range: White Clouds
Route: Northwest Face
If you're looking for a challenging climb surrounded by amazing scenery, the White Cloud Peak #10 is the peak for you. This is perhaps the most challenging summit in the entire range, with only a handful of recoded ascents The route is class IV, and most have utilized a rope to rappel off the summit to avoid steep and loose down-climbing. The route traverses the northwest face, starting at the saddle between WCP-10 and Caulkens Peak. The climb culminates with a rotten gulley that leads from the north face directly up to the summit. Views from the top are just amazing. |
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Related Links
- IDAHO: A Climbing Guide - List of favorite climbs from Tom Lopez. If Tom considers a peak a classic, then it is a classic, period.
- IdahoSummits.com - Dan has probably documented more Idaho climbs than anyone. If he speaks, listen. This is his list of top 10 scrambles.
- Splattski.com - John has summitted well over 300 peaks in Idaho alone. His favorite list should not be missed.
- Mtybumpo on SP - Matt's list of favorite climbs includes some unique suggestions for both Idaho and Utah.
- Idaho Outdoors Forum - Thread about favorite Idaho scrambles. Lots of good suggestions.
- SummitPost.org - List of Idaho peaks with the most hits. Probably not the best way to define a "classic", but interesting to see which peaks get the most attention.
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