True Grit
Elevation 11,100'
Joining Michael for his final Idaho 11er, he saved the most technically challenging one for last!
September 4, 2022
44.0896°N / 113.6359°W
True Grit is an aptly named peak located in the Lost River Range of Eastern Idaho. It is located on the remote east side of the range, and is accessible via the highly scenic Dry Creek drainage. True Grit is home to its fair share of small chunks of rock and sand, aka “grit”. And it takes courage, resolve, and strength of character to climb this peak, also aka “grit”. True Grit is the most technically challenging of Idaho’s 11ers, and technical climbing gear and experience is needed to reach the summit.
After a fun and challenging few days of climbing, Michael was now down to just one final Idaho 11er to climb. We’d had a fun day further north in the range, and then met Dylan, John, and Alex in Mackay. We caravanned to a campsite at the head of Dry Creek, and settled in for the night. Steve and Alex had climbed the peak previously, and headed off to climb a different mountain the next morning, while the rest of us headed further up Dry Creek.
The trail up Dry Creek pretty mellow, with only ~500’ of elevation gain in the first 4 miles. But then it was time to get to work. Having climbed Cleft Peak via the same approach a couple years ago, we were able to get ourselves just south of the side canyon before heading up. We also knew that staying in the dry creek bed would be the path of least resistance. Hiking in the shade of the canyon was pleasant as we dealt with various obstacles on the way up, including downed trees, boulder hopping, a dry waterfall, and detouring around cliffs.
The upper part of the canyon was nothing but rock, and we continued onward to around 10,100’ elevation before it was time to hang a left at the base of a daunting talus field. There was no “best” way up as far as we could tell. We just did or best to find stable rock as we made our way up the slopes.
Eventually we made it to the top of the talus field, and arrived at the start of the technical climb. I was relieved to be done with the talus, but now the nerves started kicking in. We all put our harness on, and Dylan placed the a few pieces of protection in the well documented crack, and then angled over to the shallow open book to lead the climb up. He made it look pretty easy, but the drop off to the left made it hard to relax.
Once above the open book, we could see Dylan on the start of steeper but blockier section of the climb up above. Soon enough he disappeared out of sight, but we knew from the occasional falling stones and pebbles that he was making progress. Not long after, he called down on the radio that he had arrived at the belay position just below the summit.
Dylan had come up with an efficient two-rope plan to get us up smoothly. John followed Dylan on the black rope and was the second one up. Michael and I were both tied in with Dylan on the blue rope. Michael went up first, and I followed about 50 or so feet below, doing our best to minimize slack in the rope.
After watching Dylan and John make their way up, it was Michael’s turn. He would unclip from the protection as he climbed, and I followed not far below. The lower open book section didn’t offer a lot of holds, but the rock was grippy to help our foot work as we angled across.
The upper section went straight up. There were plenty of holds, but many of them were loose! Michael went up the steep section, and I followed as the slack left the rope. At one point, Michael announced a big rock was about to fall. It was on his foot, and as soon as he moved, it came tumbling down. I was able to get off to one side, and it missed me by a couple feet. My adrenaline was pumping at this point, and together we made fairly quick work of the rest of the climb.
It was very satisfying and also emotional as we topped out on the summit. Michael went to the highpoint first, and took a knee examining the summit cairn. It was a neat moment, the culmination of many years of Idaho 11er climbing for Michael. The emotions continued as we thought of Splattski, who no doubt would have joined us for this climb. But that wasn’t all, as Dylan began handing out paper cups and mixed and poured us each a celebratory cocktail. We shared a pisco sour toast of congratulations for Michael. Life was good!
But it was hard to get too comfortable knowing we still had to get down. The rock was just too loose and crappy to rappel, so it was time to down-climb. I was still tied onto the end of the blue rope, so I went first with Dylan belaying me. After getting in a rhythm and fighting off nerves, it wasn’t too bad. Plenty of holds, just matter of testing for loose ones along the way. Once down the steep section, Michael followed, and then we reversed our route down the open book, and over to the bottom of the climb. John followed, and Dylan came down last, removing the protection along the way.
Now that the hard part was over, we packed up the ropes and harnesses, and shared high-fives. Next up was 900’ of talus. It was tedious, but of course much easier than “climbing” up. Once in the valley bottom, we retraced our path down the dry creek bed to the tail near Dry Creek, and then back to the trailhead.
What a day! 12 miles and 3400’ of elevation gain in 9.5 hours round trip. True Grit lived up to its name, and it was great to share the day with good Friends as we joined Michael in summiting his 114th and final Idaho 11er. Congratulation Michael!
Map of the route, 12 miles and 3400' gain round trip. |
Near the start of the hike up Dry Creek. |
Not far from the side canyon. |
Ducking under a tree. |
Making our way up the canyon. |
We climbed this neat dry waterfall. |
Heading up the talus. |
Michael climbing the talus field. |
After much anticipation, we are ready for the technical climb. |
Dylan leading. |
John climbs next. |
Michael taking a moment on the summit of his final 11er. |
Cleft Peak from True Grit. |
Triple Peak on the left, Leatherman in the distance. |
Group toast on the summit, congrats Michael! |
True Grit summit marker. |
Dylan is the last one down, John on belay. |
A final look at the technical section. |
Time to head down the talus. |
Almost back to the bottom, heading out. |
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